From the Capitol Reef Visitor Center, head east on UT-24 towards Hanksville for 12 miles through the park to milepost 91. This is outside the national park.  Turn left (north) here on a signed dirt road to the river ford.  Reset your odometer as you turn off the pavement. 

The first 0.5 miles to the river ford is lined with private property. Stay on the main BLM road. Just before 0.5 miles is a major junction. Go left, with the river ford a short distance ahead. 

Continue past the river ford. You are driving on the Hartnet Road. There are a few small spur roads that mostly lead to primitive camping. Stay on the most travelled road. At 2.9 miles, the road crosses Dry Wash. On the right here, a short distance from the road, is a convoluted dry fall where Dry Wash cuts into the next layer of rock. Worth the very short walk to check out, in my opinion.

At 7.2 miles there is an oasis in the desert! Maybe more of an attempted oasis in the desert. An old drilling truck on the right was used to drill a well for livestock water. I assume the truck broke down, which is why it was abandoned, but the well was successful and still supplies water to a stock tank. A fascinating look into the past!

The scenery changes as you enter the Bentonite Hills at about 8.7 miles. This dramatic and colorful landscape has become very photographed and shows up all over the place.  At 8.95 miles there is a small pullout on the right and a social trail that descends steeply to the wash for an up close look at the colors. 

At about 9.95 miles there is a small side road on the right that goes to a small livestock reservoir about 2.5 miles off the main road.  The side road is rough two-track. There are a couple of good primitive campsites along this side road.

Just after the reservoir side road, at 10.3 miles, is a somewhat major junction. Stay left here on the main road to continue into Cathedral Valley. 

The Lower South Desert Overlook side road leaves at mile 14. This side road, about 1.1 miles each way, ends at a stunning overlook into the Lower South Desert. Those looking for a hike can walk an old road from the parking area west to even better views, then descend into the Lower South Desert proper. (less than 1 mile round-trip depending on how far you hike) It is a nice hike, and highly recommended.  If you have time, you can continue along a social trail/faded mining track west along to the photogenic Temple Rock.  This makes for about a 4.6 mile round-trip hike. 

A small pull-out on the right at mile 17.5 marks the Temple of the Sun and Moon Overlook trail. This unofficial trail crosses the wide plain and climbs to the rim looking down on the Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon. The hike, out-and-back, is about 1.5 miles and well worth doing. The social trail is generally well travelled and easy to follow. 

At 27.1 miles, as the road is almost on top of the high ridge, the Upper South Desert Overlook side road is on the left. This short road leads to a short (less than 1/2 mile round trip) hike to overlook the South Desert.  

Next up, at 27.4 miles, is the Upper Cathedral Valley Overlook trail side road on the right. This short side road leads to a short (less than 0.5 mile) trail that overlooks Cathedral Valley proper. 

Mile 28.1 is a major junction.  To continue to Cathedral Valley, you turn right here.  Optional Return: Straight climbs up and over Thousand Lake Mountain and down to highway 72 near Fremont.  This is the quickest way back to pavement from this area, and is about 12 miles. IT IS ONLY PASSABLE WHEN DRY, AFTER WINTER SNOWS HAVE MELTED OFF THOUSAND LAKE MOUNTAIN. It is generally a very good road and well signed. If visiting in the summer, and it is hot, it is not far up this road (about a mile) to National Forest Land and some good primitive campsites. Higher up is typically a fair bit cooler. 

Cathedral Valley Campground is on the left at mile 28.4. This is an excellent place to camp if a spot is available and has great sunsets. 

The road soon begins dropping down to Cathedral Valley. This is often the roughest section of road and fairly steep. If snowy or muddy, be very cautious (or turn around!).  Once you reach the valley floor, the road is easy again. At mile 29.9 is the Morrell Line Cabin trail on the left. This short (a little over 0.5 miles roundtrip) trail visits an old line cabin.

From the NPS:

At 30.5 miles there is a small pullout on the right. This is the start of the Cathedrals Trail. This trail gives close, lofty views of the main cathedrals in the valley. It is about 3 miles round trip, and gains a bit of elevation, but was one of our family favorites. Highly recommended at sunrise or sunset for even more magical views.

The road meanders through the valley, with amazing towers and walls all around. A major junction is reached at 33.3 miles. The Baker Ranch road goes north here, traversing through the southern San Rafael Swell and eventually reaching I-70. Stay straight instead, heading east. 

Just past the Baker Ranch Jct (at 33.4) is the side road to the Gypsum Sinkhole. Follow this side road (on the right) for about a mile one way to the gigantic Gypsum Sinkhole.  It is within sight of the parking area.  Obviously, stay back from the edges!

At 37.5 miles, a small side road leaves on the left. Ignore it, and stay on the main dirt road. 

My favorite stop of the drive! At mile 42.8 is the side road to Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Moon, and Glass Mountain. Follow the side road about 2 miles (one way) to visit these features. Glass Mountain is north of the temples, with a signed side road visiting it. This is my favorite stop to get out and walk around one or both of the temples.  This is also the last stop on the drive. 

The road soon leaves the National Park and crosses the badlands. There are quite a few good primitive campsites along this section. At mile 55.7 a side road joins from the left. Stay straight, heading south. North Cainville Mesa is the large mesa just to the east. An impressive mesa that is a landmark for the area. 

Pavement! After an adventurous 58.1 miles, UT-24 is reached. Turn right here to head west back to Capitol Reef, or left to head to the small town of Hanksville.