The San Juan River was one of my most sought-after trips that took me a long time to actually do! The section described here, from Mexican Hat to Clay Hills, is a 57-mile float through an astonishingly deep and dramatic canyon in remote terrain. This is one of the finest floats in Utah and very family-friendly provided you have the skills.

From a geology and scenery perspective, I liked this more than the section above, Sand Island to Mexican Hat. This section is typically done in 4-6 days, but can be combined with the Sand Island to Mexican Hat section for a longer trip if you can get the permit. It doesn't have the rock art sites or ruins the section above it does, but has a few opportunities for longer side hikes and a more remote feel. The history of the lower San Juan is more about oil exploration, with old trails and mining ruins to see.

When: This section is generally float-able year round. Spring and fall would be my preferred seasons for more moderate temperatures. Summer will be very hot, but you have the river to cool off in.

Bugs can be a big problem during the late spring through summer months, particularly in the lower section where the river slows down, below about Slickhorn.

Flows are generally higher in early summer.

Trip Length: Typical time is about 4-6 days. We took 5 days at about 750 CFS and didn't feel rushed.

We had early starts to beat afternoon winds, but had camp setup each day by mid-afternoon and plenty of time for some side hiking and to take in the sights. From Mexican Hat to Government Rapid, with moderate paddling, we average between about 3 and 3.5 mph. From Government Rapid down, this slowed to mostly 2-2.5 depending on winds.

River Flows: Some float this section as low as 500 CFS or even a bit lower in rafts, but it gets to be more and more difficult with rocks to hang up on. We floated at about 750 CFS in a moderately loaded 16' cataraft and had two small hang-ups before Slickhorn Canyon and maybe 8-10 minor sandbar issues below Slickhorn Canyon. I think over 1,000 CFS would be easiest with a raft. Duckies and the like would probably be my choice below 750 CFS when I do it again.

On the other end of the spectrum, above about 5,000 CFS will require stronger skills. A ranger mentioned he thought 1,500-2,000 was an optimum flow.

Difficulty: This is a Class III section of river, so be certain you have skills for it. I was pleasantly surprised, at least at 750 CFS, to find the river had quite a few riffles and obstacles in addition to the named rapids. It was a fun section of river. The most difficult rapid, Government Rapid, is the one Class III rapid on this section. It requires solid skills to avoid getting hung up by one of several large rocks in the river.

Some canoe this section. If you do, have strong canoe skills or be prepared to line/portage canoes through Government Rapid and possibly the others if needed.

Drinking Water: The BLM recommends bringing all the water you will need for the trip. The San Juan is both silty and possibly contaminated from mining in the area. Be sure to bring plenty. We brought a gallon per person per day, and it was more than enough for a cool spring trip, but in the heat of summer, I probably would have brought more.

Shuttle Logistics: This trip requires a lengthy shuttle. The shuttle is about 75 miles, and may take 4-5 hours round-trip due to the Clay Hills dirt road section. We opted to hire it done via Val's San Juan Shuttles ( https://www.valssanjuanshuttles.com ). Money well spent!

Navajo Permit: The left side of the river is Navajo Nation land for most of the float. Hiking or camping anywhere on the left side of the river requires a permit from the Navajo Nation gotten in advance. It usually takes a few weeks, so be sure to send in the information for one early. You can find information on obtaining one at the Navajo Nation Parks Website.

You can camp on the left at Trimble or Oljeto without a Navajo permit because they are considered Glen Canyon Recreation Area, but you are not allowed to hike up Oljeto without a permit. We got a permit for the entire trip, but there are many great campsites on the river right. In the future, I would likely just get a permit for one day, to be able to hike up Oljeto.

River Miles: The map shows river miles, Sand Island boat ramp, being mile 0. The Mexican Hat Boat Launch is about 27, and Clay Hills between 83 and 84.

Camping Notes: When getting a permit, you have to reserve the sites you want below Government Rapid. You will enter your top two choices each night, and the BLM will choose and assign them before your trip. You can, during most of the year, only camp a maximum of 2 nights below Government Rapid in the reserved sites.

Campsites are shown where they were in 2024. Floods and use can change sites, even completely eroding some over time. Remember, you need a permit to camp at any site on the river-left.

Camp sites shown on the map are the common sites. You can, however, camp outside these sites, anywhere that strikes your fancy above Government Rapid. Smaller groups will have no shortage of small sites they can find that will be delightful. Medium-to-large groups should try to use existing sites to minimize impacts.

We camped at Upper Honaker the first night, Ross Rapid the second, Slickhorn B the third, and Oljeto the 4th. I can't imagine better campsites! We had not intended to stay at Ross Rapid, but it was so lovely we decided to camp there instead of pressing on to Johns Canyon. I am glad we did; it gave us a leisurely afternoon in a fantastic campsite.

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