Looking Glass Rock

Moab

Overview

( Rated 4.1 / 8 Ratings )

38 Todo Lists / 17 Ticks

RATING: 5.7 3-Pitches

LENGTH: 2-3 hours

MAPS: La Sal Junction, UT

Sun

47 | 27

Mon

46 | 31

Tue

46 | 28

Wed

40 | 30

Thu

41 | 25

View Full Weather Details

SEASON: Any, no snow. Hot in the summer, but good as a morning or evening route.

GEAR: 2-50 m ( 165 ft. ) Ropes - Quickdraws (8-10)

Sun

47 | 27

Mon

46 | 31

Tue

46 | 28

Wed

40 | 30

Thu

41 | 25

View Full Weather Details

climb

access: 2wd

route map

Looking Glass Rock, with its reasonable rating, and spectacular rappel, makes a great outing for those climbers comfortable on runout, but easy terrain. Although the crux moves are well bolted, there is much run out scrambling. The reward is excellent views and one of the airiest rappels you will likely every do. Climbing Looking Glass Rock, in my opinion, is a must do in the Moab area for the moderate leader.

Note: As of 2017, several bolts have been added to the route that are not described below. Though I would not have called the route particularly dangerous before, it is now apparently quite well bolted and safe.

views from the top

Getting There

Head south out of Moab on highway 191 about 22 miles to La Sal Junction.

Continue on 191 past La Sal Junction, finding the signed Looking Glass Rock road going off on the right about 0.7 miles past the junction. ( 12S 640328mE 4240536mN / N38° 18' 07" W109° 23' 42" )
Follow this road for 1.4 miles until a side road goes off on the left. ( 12S 639488mE 4238336mN / N38° 16' 56" W109° 24' 19" )
Note: You can continue 0.4 miles past this junction to visit Looking Glass rock from the usual tourist parking area before starting the climb if you wish. ( 12S 639386mE 4237559mN / N38° 16' 31" W109° 24' 23" )
Take the side road 0.3 miles to junction before a gate. ( 12S 639831mE 4237806mN / N38° 16' 39" W109° 24' 05" )
Go right a short distance (0.1 miles) to the base of Looking Glass Rock. ( 12S 639657mE 4237568mN / N38° 16' 31" W109° 24' 12" )

second pitch crux

looking down the rap

Route

From the parking spot at the base of Looking Glass, climb over the fence, and find the start of the route just around the corner from the fence.

Pitch 1: The start is a move or two up a thin crack to a ledge on the rib, and your first bolt. Scramble up the ridge passing 1 more bolt to a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch 2: This pitch is likely the crux, and contains 3 well spaced bolts at the crux moves. This pitch ends at a 2 bolt anchor and large ledge.

Pitch 3: Scramble straight up from the belay. There are no bolts, but it is 4th class. At the top, you will find a bolt you can use as a belay, or clip it and head left on the flat ledge to either a 3 piton, or 3 bolt anchor to belay.

Leave your ropes and gear at this belay, and scramble to the summit. From this last anchor, you can make a short 5 m ( 17 ft. ) rap to a ledge and window. From that ledge and multiple bolt anchor, it is a 50 m ( 165 ft. ) rappel to the ground. This is a fantastic rappel. Shortly after going through the window, the walls disappear as you rappel into the amphitheater. Amazing.